The Invisible Women of Garhwal !
HIMALAYAS - the mountains that everyone talks of, everyone wants to conquer, everyone appreciates and ultimately surrenders to.
Galore of people head towards the mountains and its vicinity- as pilgrims to the ‘Devabhoomi’, as mountaineers to summit its peak, big and small, as trekkers, rafters and of course as those seeking eternal joy and peace. Little does one heed to understand how people in the rough terrain live? Are they in search of eternity or is eking livelihood by itself exasperating? Especially the Garhwal women who are many times disadvantaged due to the rough and tough weather conditions and by “being women”!?
When I set out on my trip to Uttarkhand this time (June 2022), I was motivated to write about “something” that would be of interest. Some of my friends insisted that I should share some of my thoughts and musings. I was determined that it would not be on where to stop for tea, where does one get mouth-watering tasty ‘parathas’ and so on. Not the Day 1, Day 2 kind of travelogue account.
It’s the beating of the drums by a woman at Ukimath, on the second day of the trip that I knew what I wanted to capture. Women of Garhwal region! I soon realized that they were the invisible part of the Himalayan landscape! I had to point out at a woman carrying out some work and my fellow travelers would notice only then!
While the others clicked the scenic beauty of the surroundings, I got busy capturing women doing various activities on my phone camera. I did seek their consent before I took the photos.
(Each of the photo/s posted here, except the video, were taken with the consent of the women).
Drumming to be heard!
The ‘sarathi’ (driver) of the taxi, who was from Himachal Pradesh, dismissed women doing hard and difficult jobs as they (the women) were anyway ‘mehanathi’ (hard working) in the 'pahadi' (hilly) region.
Hard working meant a lot of things- carrying huge weight on their back and treading uphill to reach home being one among them.
Weight with smile!
Some occupations that they pursue are those we do not get to see- at least in most parts of Karnataka anymore. Like for e.g. ploughing of the field- this is in men's domain
Mera Bharath Mahan- Despite Gender Inequality at Work Space?
Breaking of the stones is another activity that I found quite a few engaged in this area.
Breaking the Himalayan Stones?
Lighter work would (perhaps) mean carrying cattle feed, rearing cattle, carrying water and many more, as in other places. Child rearing, as elsewhere, is exclusively her work.
None of this is easy given the terrain that they have to cross, especially those of collecting firewood is nerve wrecking- at least for those of us who see it from the “plain/s” point of view? It’s only the sharp and searching eyes that can see women, as flecks, far way in the hilly terrain fetching firewood.
Flecks or Human Beings?
Close to commercial (read that as tourist) spots, one finds women engaged in occupations that are income-fetching. Whether the money goes into their hands or not is a topic for another day's discussion.
I found a woman weaving a carpet, sitting on the not-so-safe edge of the terrace of a household, safe guards be damned! - And a youngster loitering around the house. That was her son and of course he was not expected to do such continuous- back- breaking work!
Safeguards be damned!
At pilgrim centers and near to talab (water bodies/pond), they are the 'workers' as also the sales persons -selling 'pooja' items, eatables, knitted hairbands etc.
Is there no leisure time for women?
It’s interesting that even while enjoying leisure time, they are engaged in some activity or the other. Alas, unlike men, women’s self-worth comes from being engaged in one activity or the other. Unfortunate but true!
Wonderful writeup and very informative!
ReplyDeleteVery informative! Lovely write up...
ReplyDeleteI have been twice to the region...yet have been blind to the women and all the back breaking work they do. But one thing I have noticed is that most if them are smiling. Very thoughtful note Maya...thanks for sharing
ReplyDeleteWell written. Pictures are superb 👌
ReplyDeleteWell described both plight & leisure...true... it's like pleasures in the plight
ReplyDeleteGood observation and beautiful pics of women at work . This is true for Leh , Ladhak, Arunachal Pradesh too . We noticed mostly women doing all the hard work . May be men have gone to plains to find jobs , to such places as Calcutta , Delhi , or even Bangalore? Or have joined Border Security Force ? . .. your travel partner ,, . Latha
ReplyDeleteMaya, this was such an interesting article to read! How many times do we actually recognize such hard working women? Admirable women of Himalayas! Very well written! Thanks for sharing
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteWoW! Very well presented and meaningful pictures you posted. Took me back to 2005, when we went to Yamunothri, Gangothri, Badri and Kedarnath. We covered a lot of places, in between, at that time. Even then, I remember throughout that journey your enthusiasm, appreciation, and empathizing the hardship of women, and never missing their smile when we stopped to chat with them. Particularly, I remember visiting a hut (our car had issues) where an aged lady operating a manual antique grinder to make Chapati flour, each wrinkle on her face and arms telling a story, and she was so delighted and shy to see us; women carrying a huge straw bundle (has not changed in decades) and firewood and happy they can go home and cook; buying handmade woolen mats and shawl, which I still have, made by women in Kedarnath and happy for once they could sell without negotiation, and many more. Two observations from my standpoint: Things have not changed for women in these parts and their saga continues, contented, and have accepted life as is. Secondly, and most importantly, you have not given up and am happy to see your passion and struggle to bring awareness remain strong, fighting for women and their pivotal role - we as Women - play in every aspect of life and economy. Pl do not give up on this journey. Love Chandri
Beautifully written Maya !! Very informative! — Shriki
ReplyDeleteCongratulations, Dr.Maya for the well written article with good photographs showing the lives of Garhwal women. It is indeed great that you did think about the lives of these struggling women rather than being a casual tourist. Your photographs brought out very clearly the hard lives of the Garhwal women. The smiling faces of these women who struggle for their livelihood is itself a sight that I will not forget. Thanks for sharing. Keep it up, Dr.Maya. All the best. Dr.Kurian
ReplyDeleteFantastic write up Maya, you observed something realistic which others had not. Very thoughtful of you. Nice pics showing these women’s attitude doing such hard chores & still smiling. Hats off to you.
ReplyDeleteThis article unveils another dimension of the Himalayan life. Woman naturally can handle hardships better than man. The mothers on the mountains are exceptional example of this truth. It is not an exaggeration if we say that more than half of the life in Himalayas is shouldered by these brave mothers. This article is a respect to such hard lives.
ReplyDeleteYou have captured good photos too.